If you’ve been crocheting for a minute (or even if you’re brand new), a crochet potholder is one of those magical projects that check all the boxes: functional, giftable, fast, and – let’s be honest – kind of addicting. But before you whip out your hook and dive into your cotton yarn stash, let’s go over the real tea on crochet potholders: how they’re different from trivets (cause yeah, there’s a difference), what makes a good pattern, how to make them more heatproof, and how to care for them after they’ve seen a few too many casserole dishes.
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Potholder vs. Trivet: What’s the Difference?
A potholder is like your kitchen’s trusty sidekick – meant to protect your hands from hot pans, or to wrap around a hot lid without sacrificing your fingerprints. They’re flexible, often double-layered or thickly stitched, and cozy to grab and go.
A trivet, on the other hand, is your table’s bodyguard. It’s made to sit under a hot pot or dish to protect your countertop or table from heat damage. While trivets can be flexible too, they’re often stiffer or have a more structured design.
Can you crochet one item that does both? Sure! But if you’re making one specifically for picking up hot pans, you’ll want to make one with extra heat protection and we’ll get into how to make that happen in a sec.
What to Look For in a Crochet Potholder Pattern
There are about a million patterns out there, but not all are created equal—especially when it comes to heat protection. Here’s what to keep in mind:
- Tight stitches: Looser stitches = holes = OUCH. Look for patterns that use dense stitch patterns like single crochet, thermal stitch, or even moss stitch if worked double-layered.
- Double thickness: Some of the best potholder patterns fold in half or are made with two panels stitched together for extra insulation.
- No plastic or metallic fibers: These can melt. Avoid any yarns that sparkle or have a sheen that smells like plastic when ironed (ask me how I know).

Making It Heatproof
Let’s get something out of the way: yarn alone is not fireproof. But you can make your potholders much safer for actual kitchen use.
- Use 100% cotton yarn – and not just any cotton. Go for worsted weight kitchen cotton like Lily Sugar’n Cream or Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton. It holds up to heat, wears well, and is easy to wash.
- Consider doubling up your yarn or creating two layers. This is especially important if you’re using a single crochet pattern.
- No acrylic. I repeat: no acrylic. It melts when exposed to high heat, and nobody wants that gooey mess near a Dutch oven. You know I love my acrylic yarn so this pains me, but it’s true.
Optional: You can add a layer of insulated batting like Insul-Bright inside your potholder for added protection if you’re sewing two crochet pieces together. Just don’t use that kind of batting alone—it needs to be sandwiched and stitched securely to work.
Caring for Your Crochet Potholder
After a few weeks of pot duty, your potholder might start looking more potheld than potholder. Here’s how to get it back to its former glory:
- Machine washable? Yep! As long as you used 100% cotton, it’s safe to toss in the washing machine.
- Wash in cold or warm water and use a gentle detergent.
- Air dry or tumble dry low. Just be aware: they may shrink a little, but they’ll fluff back into shape with a little stretch.
- No bleach or fabric softener. Those can break down the fibers over time.
Tip: If your potholder has become stiff with baked-on grease (no shame), soak it in warm water with a bit of baking soda before washing.
Final Thoughts: The Unsung Hero of the Crochet World
Crochet potholders may not be the flashiest project on your hook, but they’re workhorses. They’re stash busters, quick gifts, and a perfect project for practicing tension and new stitches. Plus, there’s something extra satisfying about making something that gets used on the regular.
So whether you’re making one for Grandma, your neighbor, or your own clumsy hands—go grab that cotton yarn, choose a dense and delicious pattern, and start stitching your next favorite kitchen companion.